Overclocking the G3258 on a Gigabyte H81M-HD3 (F6) with Stock Cooler – A Quick Review


Introduction

The Intel G2358 has wow-ed the world with cheap and solid 2 Core no-frills prestanda for gaming and day to day office work. However the fact that it overclocks really well has peaked the interest for this little cpu even further. Actually it’s not that great UNLESS you overclock it from the stock 3.2 GHz.

The problem with overclocking the G3258 is that it previously required  motherboards with Z87 or H87 chipsets, (or better) the not so cheap ones that is.

In this review we are looking at combining the cheaper G3258 with a Gigabyte H81M-HD3 micro ATX motherboard, and trying to overclock the CPU.

Let’s see how it goes shall we?

Prerequisites – BIOS Update

To start off, we need to upgrade the H81M-HD3 with the latest greatest bios we can find. Namely (at the time of writing) the F6.

F6 added support for intel K-processors, which is, as far as I can understand it, what I have bought. Now I won’t go in to how flashing is done in minuscule detail, but basically you download the updated BIOS file from gigabyte’s homepage, put it on a usb stick and load it into the BIOS and restart.

The incredibly annoying UEFI BIOS

First startup – No Luck

The first startup with BIOS F6 gave me the UEFI bios interface, that seriously confuses me, however I managed to find what I was looking for, the overclocking settings. What I immediately knew was that I needed to up the CPU voltage to 1.2V and above to overclock this chip, and 1.2V was maximum what the H81M let me achieve. That’s a roof, and a problem.

I started with Vcore 1.2v and left all other voltage settings on AUTO. I upped the clock ratio to 40, (which would give me 4.0GHz) and rebooted. – Nothing happened, it did not start, but after a while it booted to fail safe settings.

Okay, so that was no good.

After this I tinkered a bit with lower clock speeds and managed to get some overclocking going, but not near 4GHz or above.

Crap, maybe I should have bought a more expensive motherboard…

Then I had a brilliant idea

The BIOS had some other voltage settings besides VCore, namely something called VRIN and CPU Ring Voltage.

I figured it was worth a try and I let the…

- VRIN settings stay at AUTO, and I maxed the…
- CPU Ring Voltage to 1.149V
- Vcore still maxed at 1.2
- Clock ratio 40

Low and behold! The thing started, booted up to windows and was running at 4.0GHz! At least that´s something (800MHz overclock).

I ran the Intel burn test and it made it trough 10 times with no BSOD. Goodie!

So I wanted to go higher

Of course I wanted to go higher! I figured I’d max out all the voltages I could change that had to do with the CPU.
- VRIN at 1.9
– CPU Ring Voltage to 1.149, and
– VCore 1.2
– Clock Ratio 42

With the clock ratio to 42, it worked! It booted to windows and the 4.2GHz (1GHz overclock) was achieved! Not bad since it is a 30% overclocking of the CPU.

The Intel Burn Test was also successful and the machine was for all intents and purposes stable.

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So I wanted to go even higher

More then, perhaps? Well I had to find out!

I set the Clock ratio to 44 and it booted at 4.4GHz, but during the Intel Burn Test, it BSOD:ed with error 124, same thing with clock ratio 4.3

It seems with the stock cooler and this chipset, 4.2GHz is the practical limit.

I’m going to upgrade my cooler a bit to a Zalman CNPS5X and see if that helps, so stay tuned for updates to this post. I will also try to lower VRIN and CPU Ring Voltage to see how much further I can go with those settings while still keeping the CPU happy.

Conclusion (On stock cooler)

The G3258 can be overclocked about 1GHz on the Gigabyte H81M, but for higher speeds at least a better than stock cooler is needed, and considering the motherboard was maxed out as far as cpu voltage settings goes when the cpu reached 4.2GHz, this seems to be the limit for this motherboard/cpu combo. Since some CPU’s clock easier than others, your mileage may vary. If you have tried to overclock the G3258 on H81 motherboards, by all means post a comment on your settings and success/fail in the comment section below!

Have a good one! (and stay tuned for updates and pictures and all that)

XBMC for Android – Accelerated HD playback on Frodo [Solved]


Xbox Media Center, or XBMC is a wonderful add-on for any type of Android TV-stick, TV-box or Android Pad.

The problem is that with the standard version of XBMC Frodo for android, some units get no acceleration for video which means that HD-playback is choppy. Gotham, the next version of XBMC solves this with acceleration which works well, unfortunately Gotham is not compatible with some XBMC plugins using a commoncache script that is yet not updated to play nice with the Python version used in Gotham. So if you get a commoncache error in Gotham with popular plugins like Icefilms, this is why. And we have the solution.

There have been some solutions with modded versions of XBMC Frodo that use an external media player for playing back the videos from within XBMC. That’s a complicated and not so user friendly solution.

Well the solution is here, it’s called SPMC or Semper Media Center, by Staftstrom from the MINX forums.

It features:

  • h/w decoding support
  • libmedia support for multichannel DD/DTS passthrough. [This is tricky and depends on what unit you have](read more here)
  • mouse scroll support (also supports scrolling with e.g. the touchpad on Logitech K400r)

Download SPMC media center here! (v.1.5.1)

It works great with any “china”-boxes like the the mk809 or mk819. I have an mk819 and with the normal Frodo version of XBMC it was impossible to playback HD content. It still struggles somewhat on some 1080p content (seems to be dependent on what codec is used), but 720p is fluid.

Thanx Molle at Freaktab for this solution! Credit where credit is due! :)

2013 in review, and a big Thank You!


Thank you all readers for coming to my blog. It’s been a nice year, and I’m glad to have been able to help lots of people!

It seems the Philips Toucam Driver, Monitor flicker solution and Netflicks subtitles have been top posts that have interested you. (Check out top posts in the right column to read more)

I hope to be able to help you with more stuff during 2014 so let’s hope I run in to more problems to solve :)

If you have questions or problems you want me to look at or write about, mail me at mrgnomeblog@gmail.com and I’ll have a look!

Again, thank you all and have a really nice 2014!

If you want you can check out my full anual report here.

Here’s an excerpt:

The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 41,000 times in 2013. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 15 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.

Click here to see the complete report.

No option to turn off subtitles in Netflix – How to solve


Untitled

As many have noticed, lots of movies have no option to turn off subtitles when watching Netflix in Scandinavia for example.

I for one dislike subtitles in movies if i understand the language. English, for example. I don’t want to see ugly yellow finnish, swedish, danish or norweigan subtitles. They are just annoying and destroy the viewing experience directing the eyes off what is actually happening. If I want to read something I grab a book… We have the same problem here in movie theatres. I wish there were special screenings subtitle-free for people who understand english (like 90% of movie theatre-visitors here) … 

Well we can’t fix this in the movie theatre, but here is a simple workaround for Netflix at least on PC or Mac.

We tell Netflix to show a custom subtitle file, but it is just an empty text file.

Here is how:

  • Create a new text file, on the desktop for example.
  • Name it  empty.dfxp
  • (On Mac “Get Info” on the file to set the right extension)
  • Open the movie/video you want to see in Netflix
  • Hold Shift+Alt (for Mac Shift+Opt) and LEFT CLICK on the screen
  • Select “Load Custom DFXP File
  • Load your empty.dfxp -file

Voila, subtitles are gone! Now rejoice and take the poll!

Running SFC Scannow in system repair, Win7


If you are stuck in a loop where the windows 7 does not boot and the system repair cannot fix your installation , it might be a good idea to run the system file checker.

 

However sfc doesn’t really understand what to do if you just run sfc /scannow from the advanced repair options command prompt.  – We need to tell it where windows is installed.

So choose advanced repair options, command prompt and type:

SFC / SCANNOW /OFFBOOTDIR=c:\ /OFFWINDIR=C:\Windows

If you have windows installed on another drive than C, change it. For me it was E for example.

If you don’t remember where it is, type c: and hit enter in the command prompt, then type dir and see if you see a folder (A text line) that says Windows if not try again by changing the drive letter, to d: ,hit enter, type dir, hit enter and keep hunting for those files.

Good luck,